A Sip of Şalgam — What Is Şalgam Juice and How Is It Made?

A sip of şalgam is the sour, spicy signature of the tables of Adana and Mersin. Despite its name, which means “turnip”, its main ingredient is not turnip but black carrot.

What is şalgam juice?

Şalgam juice is a drink made by fermenting black carrot, bulgur flour, sourdough starter, rock salt and water. Turnip root is used too, but only in small amounts; it is the black carrot that gives the drink its colour and flavour.

During fermentation, lactic acid bacteria get to work; that is where the sour taste comes from. In other words, şalgam belongs to the same family as pickles.

How is it made?

The traditional method has two stages:

1. The dough water: Bulgur flour, sourdough starter and water are mixed and left to ferment for a few days, then strained.
2. Fermenting the carrots: Chopped black carrot, turnip and rock salt are combined with this liquid and left for a further 5–10 days.

The longer it is left, the sourer it gets. Temperature is hard to control at home, so getting it just right takes experience.

Hot or mild?

This is the first question you are asked when it is served. The heat comes from ground chilli added at a later stage — şalgam itself isn’t spicy. In Adana most people drink it hot; in the neighbouring provinces the mild version is more popular.

The slice of radish served alongside balances the flavour and freshens the mouth.

Why is it drunk with kebab?

The sourness of şalgam cleanses the palate after rich, spicy food; its acidity is refreshing after a heavy meal. Ayran, a salted yoghurt drink, does the same job, but şalgam does it with sourness.

The health side

Because it is fermented, it contains beneficial bacteria. Black carrot is rich in anthocyanins — the compounds that give it its colour, and powerful antioxidants. It is high in salt, though, so anyone with blood pressure problems should be careful with it.

You’ll find more flavours of Adana cooking in the Recipes section.